About Me

educator, writer, traveler

Thursday, July 28, 2005


Karen Village Posted by Picasa

A huge chedi that is a copy of the one in the capital of Myanmar. Posted by Picasa

Burmese women in Thailand. They're wearing the traditional face powder. Posted by Picasa

A Burmese temple right by the bridge from Mae Sai, Thailand. I forgot to mention this one. It's a unique style. Posted by Picasa

Tuesday, July 26, 2005

A morning in Myanmar

If you ever make it to Mae Sai, the northernmost city in Thailand, you can visit the Union of Myanmar for a day. It costs 250 baht to cross the bridge that connects Mae Sai to Tachileik. Be warned. You'll have to let the Burmese officials hold on to your passport until you return.

Tan and I went over the border to see some tourist traps and go shopping. As soon as we exited Thailand, we saw a line of touts with pictures of day trips. The first man in line stepped up to try his luck. If he got us then he had a morning full of work. We made his day because we didn't have any idea of how to get around. So we hopped into the back of his tuk-tuk, a motorcycle towing a horse carriage with bicycle wheels.

At first, it was much like driving through Mae Sai just with the signs switched from English and Thai to English and Burmese. Then I noticed a sign written by the Burmese government. It said, "We must all do our part to eradicate the illegal narcotic trade." Then we drove by statues of soldiers standing with pride at a "Basic Education School."

Tachileik was obviously poor. The roads had some huge potholes, people's homes didn't look as nice, and the sewer channels didn't seem to drain underground. We drove by kids playing in rubble and restaurant patrons glued to a boxing match on TV, which must be an uncommon luxury. In the midst of this, we saw a hotel and a golf course.

As we drove to our first stop a Buddhist temple, I noticed young monks. They were wearing dark red robes instead of the bright orange color that monks have in Thailand. There were many trees planted by the road and misty mountains were spectacular in the distance. It was slightly raining. Our heads were covered, but the monks were getting wet. One of them wore a sour expression. He probably didn't like walking a long way in the rain.

Our first temple was nothing exciting. Buddha looked different, but nothing seemed very different from Thai Buddhist temples. Then we went to a golden spired temple which is a replica of the famous one in Yangon. We were greeted by Burmese women wearing traditional face powder. The yellow and white powder is worn on their cheeks. It looks like sunscreen that hasn't been rubbed in enough. I read that it is supposed to keep their skin protected from the sun and keep it healthy. I set up the tripod that I had just bought. I'm sure Tan was getting bored while I snapped away dozens of pictures. Tan insisted that we set some birds free. The women had birds in small cages that tourists could release for a few baht. We released about 5 birds.

Our next stop was a Karen village. We were in for a let down. We had to pay extra money to go inside. Tan paid about 90 baht. I paid much more because of the white man tax. It seems to be fairly standard throughout southeast Asia. The tribe lived in bamboo huts with all the modern things. I saw a satellite and a TV in one hut. Our tour guide lead us to the top of the village. We saw six old ladies. Three were Karen people or longnecks. They wore rings around their necks. The others had elaborately decorated headdresses. We took photos with them. They were going to do a song and dance if more people showed up, but no one showed up for a while. We decided to cut the tour short. We weren't impressed, so Tan asked the driver to take us back to the city.

The Burmese outdoor markets were similar to Thai markets. Most of the stores were covered in tents or umbrellas and sold items ranging from illegal DVDs to fake Louis Vuitton purses. Much of the things for sale were probably from China. Pesky salesmen with buckets strapped to themselves swarmed me as soon as I came by. They all sold fake Marlboro cigarettes, and some thrusted pornos in my face. I haven't been subjected to this type of behavior since I walked down Silom road in Bangkok.

Tan bought some jewelry. I bought a plate with an imprint of a Burmese warrior riding an elephant and a t-shirt with the Burmese flag. It was a good tour of Myanmar eventhough it was just a couple of hours.

Thursday, July 14, 2005


A boat woman at the Floating Market coming to sell her things to the tourists. Posted by Picasa

sawat dee, krahp. Hello from Bangkok. Posted by Picasa

Sunday, July 03, 2005


Happy 4th of July! I took this pic with my new camera. Posted by Picasa

Monday, June 27, 2005

How did I get into this position?

Tan has been trying to get me to try yoga for a while. She said it will make you feel good. So I finally caved in because I had nothing better to do, and it was free for first-timers.

We entered a hot room and sat on thin mats. The instructor, a middle-aged foreign woman, greeted us and pointed to the mats reserved for new people.

We began with breathing exercises. "Inhale deeply, slowly. Now exhale completely. Get all of the air out of your lungs."

As we did this we held our hands over our heads. We did this a few more times to finish the warm up.

We did a series of standing positions next. It didn't take long before I could really feel some soreness. WIthin 10 minutes I sweat so much that it looked like I had had gone swimming.
In one position, I had to lean forward with my arm extended towards the wall in front of me and above my head while balancing on one leg and lifting the other one so my ankle was visible above my head in the mirror in front of me. I fell once trying. But I finally got it and the instructor said, "That's beautiful Steve." Jaron made no attempt to hide his amusement from hearing this comment. He was cracking up. I got to laugh at him too though. In another position, the instructor told him to spread his legs farther, and he couldn't do it.

Then we began doing some positions on the floor. I thought it would get easier. Wrong! I couldn't believe that the floor positons could be so painful. My least favorite was one where you have to spread your arms and lift your legs and stomach like your a Boeing 747 taking off. I wasn't able to hold the positon. This position is not ideal for men. The instructor said it was good for digestion, but it didn't feel good at all at the time.

In another position the instructor used an expression that reminds me of all the stereotypical images I have of yoga instructors. "Now curl up like an angry cat." I'm definitely not meant to be a cat. I must have looked angry though. The instructor said, "Good job."

When I finished I was freezing because I was soaked and walking through air conditioned rooms. Tan, Stephanie and Shelley enjoyed it. Jaron and I were less enthusiastic. But I admit I felt much better the next day. My lower back felt good. I felt so good that I will probably do it again. But since it costs $10 per session, I won't be doing Yoga very often.

Yoga is worth trying because it honestly makes you feel great. See y'all later.

a lizard lurking by the moat Posted by Hello

Monitor lizard at my school, not a zoo Posted by Hello

Tan and I say hi! I miss y'all. Posted by Hello

Friday, June 24, 2005

Six months and Tan's surprise

This weekend marked six months that Tan and I have been together. I wasn't sure what what we were going to do. Tan said she has a surprise for me after we went to church. The surprise turned out to be a massage with aromatherapy. The place used lavendar on Tan and another scented oil on me that was called cyntorin (I think). It felt very good, but it was odd because I had never had one before. We had a room with two beds. Each of us had to lie face down wearing a towel. Soft Thai music was playing on a stereo. I heard the Kim, a harp like instrument played in a similar fashion as a drum. The hands of the massuse felt like waves of heat and then seemed to change into something like a block of wood.
It was a wonderful surprise. I wish my surprise for her could have matched it. I gave her a box of nice candles and a candle holder with potpouri and chocolates. I also wrote her a note on the back of a postcard from Texas.
We had a good a weekend.

Andrew Ross, my friend from Australia, has arrived in Bangkok. He will be teaching English at Interlingua a private institute. What's really cool is that he moved into the same apartment building as me and the rest of the teachers. So we'll see him quite a bit.

I love you all.

Thursday, June 16, 2005

Tan helps with bird flu documentary

Tan has a friend who works with the French embassy in Bangkok. She asked Tan to help translate for some French journalists doing a documentary of the bird flu problem in Thailand. Tan accepted the assignment and travelled with the reporting team for five days. They started in Lopburi last week on Thursday. Tan translated the questions and answers for the interviews from Thai to English. The Frenchmen will translate what she said to French for the report. The government told the reporters that this farm had the bird flu last year, but the farmer denied it.

The next day Tan interviewed a Senator at the Parliament building in Bangkok. Then they went to Supanburi to see another farm. On Saturday and Sunday, they went to Kalasin province. Tan said it was like she was in another country. "It felt like I was in Cambodia or Vietnam, because the people were so poor. It didn't feel like Thailand." Tan has grown up in Bangkok, so seeing subsistence farmers is not a familiar sight.

After the work on the documentary ended, the French journalists brought Tan to the AP Regional Headquarters in Bangkok. I'm so jealous, as a journalist. I want to see that place. She was introduced to some big wig over there and they recommended her as a translator. AP called her this week and offered to put her on a list of translators to call for AP news in Thailand. I am so excited for her. God is blessing her so much. Maybe I can get connected too. We'll see.

Tuesday, June 14, 2005

Fresh eyes

I remember how wide-eyed and clueless I was when I first arrived in Thailand. Luckily, I had friends who knew their way around that acted as tour guides for me and the rest of the newcomers. Lindsey, Andrew and especially Erin could tell me how to do just about everything. And if they didn't know, then one of us would consult the know-it-all Lonely Planet Thailand travel guide.

I remember the first time I saw an elephant walk down the street. I saw it at night on my way to the ATM by 7-11. A man carried sugarcane sticks in a plastic bag and offered to let anyone feed it for a price. The elephant strolled down the road running under an overpass as cars and motorbikes zoomed past it. I immediately pulled out my camera.

I think back to this time because now I am the tour guide. If there are any questions I can't answer I ask Tan. She's the real tour guide. I am so lucky to know her. She is a wonderful girlfriend and a very helpful person. I keep telling everyone that they are spoiled because they know her. And I am spoiled too. She translates what we want to eat. She tells the girls where to go shopping. She knows more than any book. Although, occasionally she'll look up information in the Lonely Planet.

There were many initial moments that hit me with great surprise when I entered Bangkok, Thailand for the first time. But let me share some of these moments from the other teachers at my school.

In Hua Hin, we went to a temple and it was crawling with monkeys. One of the monkeys tried to steal Tim's bag of food. Tim fought it away by opening his umbrella and sheilding himself. Shelly, his fiancee, shrieked with surprise. The monkey ran off. Shelly stayed close to Tim for protection as they continued walking around.

We were walking around the school grounds and Jaron saw a monitor lizard. He said, "Whoah. That's cool. Would they care if someone grabbed one and wrestled it." The rest of us were really surprised. "Are you joking? I'm sure they wouldn't like it." I said. "There is a guard right there with a loaded gun. I wouldn't go near the moat if I were you." "They wouldn't shoot me, would they?" "Probably not, but why would you risk it?" Jaron started towards the moat. "Stop. Don't do it. It would be disrespectful to go near the Palace. That's why the guard is there," I said. He stopped. "Okay. I didn't know it would be rude," he said.

While Caleb taught a lesson students were distracted by a black spider. He got fed up because no one was listening. The students surrounded the spider and pointed at it. So Caleb squashed it. The kids in his P4 class got very upset. They started to pray for the spider. Caleb felt really bad. Then the kids spotted a white spider. One of them said, "The spider reincarnated." Caleb says he didn't make this story up.

Jill and Rori have gone to aerobics in the park near our apartment. Everyday at 6pm a group of about 200 Thai people show up and do aerobics for 45 minutes. They play an interesting variety of techno music like the Achy Breaky Heart Song and hits from Michael Jackson. They were trying their best to keep up, but they were a few steps behind. In the front an old Thai man noticed they were out of step. He said, "You come up with me. You come up to the front." He said it forcefully, so they obeyed. He said, "You count out loud in English. 1-2-3." They obeyed. And they were exhausted by the end. Rori said, "He was really into it. He added extra hops into his steps. And he told us to come back everyday at the same time so he could show us how to do it. We were like, whoah, we have other things to do. We can't come everyday. His name's Jack. He grew up in Chicago. He's a really intense old man." They've seen him everytime they've gone back to do aerobics. Usually his wife is there with him, but she doesn't do the extra hops.

I'll add more to this later. Peace out.

Sunday, June 05, 2005

Trip to Hua Hin

My first week went better than expected. the kids were mostly polite and didn't misbehave as much as last year.  I hope this trend continues. I went with 12 friends to a jazz festival in Hua Hin this weekend. It was a lot of fun.  Tan planned the trip.  I'll try to get some pics up soon.  I'll put them in the Hua Hin album on my Yahoo! photo account.
 
The bands played on a stage on the beach.  We saw a world famous bass player and a good Thai jazz group.  Tan knows the Michael, the son of the Thai jazz guitarist that we saw play.  He is one of her students.  She took me to say hello to Michael and his mom. 
 
Tan was amazingly nice.  I kept telling everyone how spoiled we are for having her help us get around.  Tan took us to a very good seafood restaurant.  She ordered fish, prawn soup, squid and a pineapple fried rice.  The pineapple fried rice was the best.  It's rice served in a hollowed-out pineapple.
 
The next day we hung out on the beach and then went to see a Buddhist temple and a statue that is built by a cliff over the beach.  I hope y'all are doing well.
 
Take care,
Steve


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Monday, May 30, 2005

Tan's Birthday

Tan turned 22 on Sunday. And I finally got my luggage. It arrived on Friday, two days after I got here. The bags were shipped to my school. Thanks mom. Your labelling helped the airline find my bag. My first day of class went well. I taught P.5 today. I'm teaching P.3 every other day of the week. They are the same kids I had last year. I hope that goes well. The Thai teacher who is my counterpart in P.3 is going to come back in two weeks. Until then I will be working with a different Thai teacher. I think things will be okay. I've enjoyed the time I've spent with Tan and the new teachers. Some of the new teachers met Tan and friends from church at Tan's birthday party. It was held at a very nice Thai restaurant run by Tan's friends. I gave her a purse and a perfume from Victoria's Secret. This is special because there isn't a VS store in Thailand. That's all for now.

A Hectic, Long Trip

It was Sunday night, the night after the wedding. I had planned to arrive in Bangkok by 11 am local time on Tuesday. But I didn't get very far that night. I got stuck in El Paso. Robert dropped me off with plenty of time to spare. I was early for my flight, but I unfortunately was flying America's *cough* Worst *cough* I mean America West. *Cough* Excuse me. Something's in my throat.

A few guys told me that America West has been really bad with delays and cancellations. One guy who was going to miss his connection to Ontario said, "If you've got time to spare, go by air."

There was a problem with the plane's radio. So my flight was cancelled to Phoenix, which is their hub by the way. Why wouldn't you have an extra plane at your hub? By the time this was announced I had missed my chance to get on a flight directly to LAX. I was going to spend the night alone in a Microtel Hotel in El Paso. The airline paid for my room and two meals. Luckily, America West is a partner with EVA air. So they scheduled me for flights the next day for no charge.

I called Tan that night to tell her I was going to be late. She answered at lunch time in Bangkok. I couldn't tell her when I would arrive because I noticed that my ticket said I would arrive on Tuesday. But I knew that wasn't possible, so it wasn't using local times. I was too tired to figure out the time zones. So she couldn't meet me at the airport as she had planned.

The next morning I went to the airport early got my new boarding passes to Phoenix and LAX. Since my flights were different than I had originally, my luggage tags were handwritten. I checked them in, and then I tried to call Tan. I was unsuccessful because the toll free number on my international phone card didn't work on pay phones. So I couldn't reach her. I still didn't have a better idea of when I would arrive anyway. This time there was a slight delay, but the airplane was in the port at least. So I knew we would actually get in it this time.

I made it to Phoenix okay, but I had to scramble to board the plane to take me to LAX. I found it just as it was time for people to start boarding. Then we pulled away from the loading port, and I thought we were on our way. But we were halted. The pilot announced that heavy traffic into LAX was causing us to wait. So we sat on the runway for about 45 minutes or longer. Finally, we got out of Phoenix.

Everytime I go to LAX I feel lost. There are so many buildings and so many people coming and going. It's overwhelming. I left America West and was happily rid of them. Then I asked someone for directions. A nice lady directed me to a shuttle to the International Terminal. There I found departures on the second floor. I got into the wrong line before a lady asked me what airline I wanted. She directed me to a much shorter line for EVA air. So I got in it gladly. EVA Air was not open yet. So I waited for about half-an-hour and then finally got my boarding pass and some bad news. I had lost my luggage claim number in Phoenix or somewhere in the vast maze of LAX. So the lady sent out an APB for my bag. I wasn't sure if things were getting better or worse. It certainly felt hectic. While I waited for about 4 hours, I met a few people. One was a guy who was going to meet his Taiwanese girlfriend and her family in Taipei. Another one was an American visiting family in Taipei. He was a graduate of Illinois University. He was going get a master's in San Francisco and go on to do international business. Finally I met a Thai lady on her way to Bangkok to visit family she hadn't seen for many years. She moved to Baytown, Texas 15 years ago with her husband. She spoke heavily accented English. I mentioned my family connection to Baytown, and she thought that was funny. I mentioned my Grandmother's church, and she gave me a flyer from her Baptist church so I could visit sometime.

Finally, after 13 hours and about 7,000 miles I arrived in Taipei. I had watched three bad movies and was about to go crazy from being in a plane so long when I immediately got on another plane for 4 more hours to Bangkok. I arrived at 2 a.m. local time on Wednesday. And I got more bad news. My luggage had been lost.

I called Tan. I had woken her up. Fortunately, she was not working that day. I got a taxi ride from the airport to my apartment. No one was awake except the night security guard. He doesn't speak any English. I tried to use my Thai phrase book to communicate that he should wake up the manager to give me a key, but I wasn't getting through. Finally, I called Tan and handed the phone to him. She explained the situation and I finally got him to let me in. I took a nap. Finally, Tan came over to see me. It was the reunion we had been thinking about for two months. The school let me have a day off. So we hung out and saw Star Wars III. I slept very well that night. I used to Benadryl to help knock me out.

Thursday, May 12, 2005

Remembering Grandma

My Grandma Regena Cross passed away today around 11 am. She probably suffered from a stroke. I know she is in a better place now and she feels no more pain. She was not herself when I saw her last weekend. In a way, that comforts me. I find it hard to put into words the lasting contribution and legacy that she gave to our family. She was a loving mother to my dad and Aunt Kay and Uncle Tracy. She was a wonderful Grandma to me. Grandma Cross had such a servant's heart and a great sense of humor. I miss her. I'll miss the great conversations we had and listening to her stories. It is comforting to know that she is in Heaven, and she is reunited with Grandpa Ray.

Sunday, April 24, 2005

Everyone lives in a bubble

I went up to Sugarland, Texas this weekend to see some of my family that I hadn't seen since I acquired the label of "world traveler." I don't really think the label fits me. Sure, I've been further away from the USA than most of the people I know, but I still have seen only a tiny part of Southeast Asia. There's a whole lot left in the world unseen by my eyes and untouched by the soles of my sneakers.

I went up to see my cousin Linda in a dance recital. Her high school Stars team put on a terrific dancing show. Most of the dances combined elements of ballet and cheerleading, with an occasional bit of tap dancing. I've never seen Linda dance before. It was impressive. She can spin like a top, prance like a deer and lift up other girls like a ballet dancer. And she could keep up step for step with Britney Spears in any routine from her music videos.

I also saw my cousin Tori. She had a baby while I was away. Her daughter Alex is adorable. And I met her husband Monty for the first time as well. It was a tough delivery for Tori, but I think she is feeling better now. Thank God that Alex is healthy.

There were so many family members that I saw this weekend. There just wasn't even time to really catch up with them all. And I won't have enough time because I leave in a month. I'll miss everyone.

I've adjusted fairly well to being back in America. I'm amazed at how traffic actually moves. Bangkok traffic makes Austin traffic look very organized. And traffic in Vietnam makes Bangkok traffic look organized. When I was in Thailand, I missed Mexican food and homecooking. Now I enjoy eating them, but I miss Thai food. I tried making some Tom Yum Kung, spicy prawn soup. It was okay but too bland. Not spicy enough. And I miss the excitement of traveling and experiencing Thai culture. The Thai people are so friendly and inclusive. So these two months in America are a transition, an in-between time.

I'm definitely looking forward to going back to Thailand. Having a girlfriend waiting for me is a big part of it. That's one reason I'm eager to go, but that's not all. I just miss the adventure. I miss the friendships I made too. Right now I'm working a lot as a substitute teacher. It's similar to my work in Thailand in many ways. But I don't hang out with friends like I did in Thailand. I had lots of fun on a regular basis. I don't go out as much now. I hang out at home with mom and dad, which is fine. But it's a little boring sometimes. We did go to a Bob Marley Festival in Austin. That was pretty cool. Things will probably change a bit when my brother comes back from college next weekend. He knows how to have fun.

And life has changed a lot since I left. About a dozen of my friends and/or acquaintances have gotten married. I've heard of other surprises as well. And I guess many of my friends are too busy to write. Others things amaze me too. My cousins have grown and matured so much in 10 months. It's true what they say: You can never go home again. Because home is just an idea. Your idea of home is not reality. When you come back everything has changed.

I think one of the most irritating things about not being in Thailand has been just a lack of understanding. Most Americans don't go to Asia. Many Americans I speak to don't know anything about Thailand. Some people asked if they speak Taiwanese.

I've told some of the middle school and high school kids about my experiences. Usually they're curious. Some of the kids laugh at me when I say a phrase in Thai. The kids try to imitate me and they can't. They really laughed when I told them about squat toilets. I'm not ever sure how that came up in conversation. And lots of the teachers I meet say they wouldn't want to go that far away. Lots of people limit themselves. They're afraid of leaving America. They're comfortable in their own bubbles.

The pictures I've shown don't do a very good job of sharing my experience. And my stories aren't any better. It's really frustrating because I can't really share it. If I say something was beautiful, you can only think of what you know or try to imagine from looking at my photos. But you'll never see what I saw unless you go to the same place. You are limited by your point of view, by your bubble. Everyone lives in a bubble. I just live in a different one. One that includes parts of Asia. I hope some of my friends and family will visit me when I go back. If not, just keep reading. I'll continue to share my experiences in this limited way.