About Me

educator, writer, traveler

Friday, October 30, 2020

Last Ride Before Valhalla

 On a chilly October night, four of us climbed into my tiny, black Jeep Compass to leave Hidden Falls Adventure Park in Marble Falls, Texas. When we departed, thick darkness had already covered everything in the Texas Hill Country – except the bright stars that dotted the wide, open sky.  My Jeep’s headlights attempted to cut through the night as we followed a group of trucks traveling down a dirt road. We went up a small hill, and I spotted a sign. I remembered the route to the next campsite, but after that I wasn’t sure. I would need to consult the map to find the park’s exit.

My wife Tan, my cousins Daniel and Amanda, and I were tired and ready to leave the park.  We were planning to meet up with more family members at a Whataburger for a late-night snack. After we left, many of our family and friends still lingered by the fire as the embers slowly died at our campsite. At the last moment, Amanda had decided to ride with someone else. As a result, she missed a lot of excitement.

My brother Tony liked to tease me about my Jeep Compass. He never actually called it a Compass.

“There’s your toy Jeep over there!” he would shout with a laugh. “It’s a Jeep-lite! No. Actually, it’s a diet Jeep!”

 His Jeep Wrangler towered over my Compass whenever our Jeeps were parked next to each other. I admit it. My Jeep did look a lot like a toy version of his, and I envied his Wrangler.

“Why get a Jeep if you’re not going to go off-roading with it? Is it really a Jeep?” he would ask.

I had compromised in the name of fuel efficiency. Obviously, my Compass would never be trail-rated. Tony was quick to remind me of this fact as well.

As I cautiously drove on the winding trail, we watched the road nervously.

I’m sure it’s this way.” I feigned confidence.

“Did you see a sign? I thought there would be a turn by now.” Then, my wife commanded. “Ask someone!”

I thought I knew where I was going, but I soon realized that I had gotten lost.

“Okay. Okay. I’ll go back.”

Then, I turned around and went back to the nearest campsite to ask someone for directions.

I saw a line of Jeeps with people sitting in them waiting.

“Hey, are you going out?” I asked a lady.

“Yes. If you want to follow us, just get in the back of the line.”

I pulled up behind them and waited. I didn’t realize it yet, but she did not mean they were going out of the park. She meant they were going out on a night run on steep and dangerous trails.

The line of cars left, and they were going fast. I soon realized that I was in way too deep. They were driving on a trail that had huge chasms. I had to weave in and out or risk being swallowed up by the ground. 

“Are you sure, we’re going the right way?” my wife asked.

“They said they were going out.”

“Wait. What did they say?” she yelled. “What did they say exactly?”

“They just said they were going out.”

“So, you don’t know where they’re going.”


“Well, who just goes out in the middle of the night unless they’re leaving the park?” By now I was yelling. Obviously, I had asked a dumb question because this group was doing exactly that.

I started praying. If I swerved into one of those holes, my car was a goner. There would be no easy way to get my Compass out. I didn’t have a wench like a Wrangler did. No one could pull me out.

I thought to myself, my car won’t survive this, and maybe we won’t either.

Somehow, I managed to dodge every gaping hole. I kept going because I thought if I stayed with the group, then, at least I would have gotten somewhere.  I also feared that if I stopped, we would become stranded and all alone in the darkness. There was no cell phone reception out there also. But we weren’t heading towards the exit. We were just going deeper into the forest of darkness.  Thinking back to those moments, that was the most impressive driving I have ever done. But, honestly, I can’t take any credit. Because in those moments, I believe, that Tony took the wheel, and he was driving like a maniac.

Then, we made a sharp turn, and I saw a huge dip. And after the dip was an even bigger hill. I thought the only chance to make it would be to get a lot of speed and try to climb the hill with momentum. This did not work.

I yelled some expletives as we descended. We were all screaming, and I bet Tony was loving this! I thought we might flip over. But we made it all the way down and then half way up the next hill before we got stuck. My tires started spinning out. I could hear the them kicking up dirt, and I could smell burnt rubber. We started sliding backwards every time I stopped trying to go forward. I cut the engine and put on the parking brake. We slid a little more before we finally came to a stop.

A few moments later, a truck pulled up. Two guys stopped and got out. One of them said, “You look like you need some help.  My name’s Justin.”


I was so relieved. I told him I was driving a Compass. Justin could not believe I had made it that far without four-wheel drive.

I let Justin back up the Compass and then he changed a setting on my car, and it helped it climb up the hill that was less steep. Then, he carefully maneuvered the car back to an easier trail. His buddy followed us. Finally, we arrived at the gate of the park about an hour later. We thanked both of them, but not before another Jeep came by with some of their other buddies.

Justin bragged, “You’ll never believe it. I just drove Baby Back in a Compass.” Baby Back was the name of a four-diamond trail. The highest difficulty rating of trails in the park was five diamonds. It was a miracle we didn’t get hurt or damage the vehicle at all.

Earlier that night we had been celebrating Tony’s life, by scattering his ashes at the campsite that was named Area 51. Someone at the park must have had a sense of humor. We had built a Viking-style pyre in the same place where his ashes lie. Tony and many of his friends enjoyed dressing up as Vikings and brewing mead. We drank lots of mead that night and told epic tales about him as we prayed his soul would find peace in Heaven or Valhalla, as the Vikings call it.  Several symbolic tokens of his life were placed in the fire before it burned. I ripped out a page from a Calvin and Hobbes comic because he loved that strip. His friends placed a Viking shield that he had been very proud of. Others wrote letters to him and put them in the pile. Someone even threw in a bag of French fries because he loved junk food so much. After some speeches and a final Viking war chant, the fire was lit. The pyre grew higher and higher until all of the items were consumed.

After saying goodbye to my deceased little brother, we had that crazy ride. I really believe it was Tony’s last prank on yours truly. Maybe he was getting back at me for telling some embarrassing stories about him at his funeral. He definitely got the last laugh though. We came close to being reunited that night. When I think about Tony and listen closely, I can hear him laughing all the way from Valhalla about that last ride we shared. When we finally reached Whataburger, we had a quite a story to tell.


Copyright 2020, Steven Cross

Thursday, December 14, 2006

Funny Police Chase (Thailand)

I honestly couldn't make this up. Tan and I were watching the news on TV, and we saw Bangkok police chase a suspect making a daring escape on an elephant. The news said that it took two hours to finally catch the suspect. The man steered the elephant onto a busy road and went the wrong direction. Traffic had to move because, I suppose, the elephant always gets the right of way. The man was finally dragged off the elephant and arrested. I guess the elephant finally got tired of running.

Thursday, August 24, 2006

Siem Reap- Angkor Temples

The temples of the ancient civilization of Angkor were incredible. Only being there can really capture that. I took loads of photos. My favorite parts were the carvings in the wall at Angkor Wat, the large faces at Bayon, and the huge trees that grew over the Ta Prohm temple. If you want to see them up close then you should go there or watch the Tomb Raider movie.

Some of the more memorable moments included the moments we interacted with the Cambodian children. Many of them come to the temples to beg or sell postcards, water bottles, handicrafts and other things. Most of them speak English surprisingly well. Halley talked to them about what they wanted to do. Some of them wanted to be tour guides. Tan and I gave candy to the kids since we didn't want to buy things from all of them. Many of the kids would ask you questions like where are you from? I answered. "America. Texas." Then they would say, "The capital of America is Washington, D.C. The capital of Texas is Austin." I asked them the capital of other states and they knew lots of them. I was impressed. One of the boys I met asked me, "What is your name?" "My name is Steve. What is your name?" "My name is Superboy." I gave him some candy, and then Tan and I bought some water and we bought ice cream for about eight kids. Then Superboy gave me a postcard that he wrote. It said, "I'm very glad to meet you. You were very nice. I hope to see you again when you comeback to Cambodia. Superboy."

I was very touched. He had such a good attitude despite his circumstances.

Tuesday, August 15, 2006

Phnom Penh- A macabre tourist destination

Tan, Halley and I arrived in Phnom Penh around 9 a.m. Our flight from Bangkok only took an hour. We had to pay $20 for visas in the Phnom Penh International Airport. We filled out the application and handed over the money and our passports. Then we got into a line and waited to get our passports back. The line didn't matter at all because a man pulled out a passport and called out "Hello" and then waived it in the air with the picture showing. He didn't try to read names at all. It was a long line, so things were chaotic.

We were picked up at the airport by a tuk-tuk. Phnom Penh is developing gradually. It has some paved roads and many dirt roads. There are some very nice hotels and French colonial buildings, but most of the town is dirty. Trash was everywhere, and the foodstalls looked too unclean for me to try anything. I saw what must have been some internet cafes setup outside under umbrellas.

We checked into the Sunday Guesthouse. It is located on a dirt road about 10 minutes from the airport. I wanted to call my friend John, but there was no phone for guests to use. So I went looking for a pay phone nearby. I couldn't find one and lots of the locals were trying to get my attention as I walked around. They asked if I needed a tuk-tuk or motorbike or if I wanted to buy postcards. I ignored them and went to one of the street restaurants to ask if I could use a phone. The lady didn't understand, so I pulled out my phone and tried to show her that it didn't have a signal. A man came by, and he could speak a little English. He told them what I wanted. So another man let me borrow his cell phone, and I gave him a dollar. John and I arranged to meet up for dinner. Then we rented a tuk-tuk for the day and went on a tour.

Our first stop was at the Russian Market. It was filled with cheap clothes made in Cambodia. There was also lots of pirated DVDs and CDs. We stopped for lunch and met a couple who were missionaries. They worked with street children. We split up and went shopping. While walking through the market, Halley met a Cambodian girl who tried to talk to her, but she couldn't speak English. Halley noticed that she had been bitten on the hand. She found someone who could translate. The girl had been bitten by a dog and she wanted to go to a doctor. Halley found us and asked what to do. We asked a woman to translate for us. The girl said her mother was not around. We asked if there was a hospital nearby. The woman told us there was a clinic around the corner. It took a while to understand what she said. And when we looked for it, all we found was a drugstore. So Halley bought the girl iodine and bandages for her hand. Then she cleaned her up and put them on. The pharmacist told the girl to get a rabies shot, but I doubt she could afford it. We didn't know where a hospital was, and we didn't want to take her anywhere far away from the market, so we said goodbye.
Next we went to the killing fields in Choeng Ek village. We travelled on dirt roads to get there.

Inside the killing fields genocide memorial, there wasn't much to see. We were confronted by beggars who were mostly children and landmine victims. The most visible reminder of the dead is the memorial building that is filled with skulls of the victims. It is one of those things you see that you can't believe. It is a tall building filled to the roof with skulls. In the green fields, there were ditches that had been used as mass graves. There were signs at various spots that detailed the torture that happened. One of the trees was used. It's ironic that it is a tourist attraction. Cambodia is such a poor country, so it is willing to show history of the genocide to tourists for money. I read an article that said a new tourist attraction will open: the stronghold of Pol Pot. It will have former Khmer Rouge soldiers as tour guides. The article also said that a Japanese company won the bidding to improve the facilities of the Choeng Ek genocide memorial. It will pave the road to get there.

After that we went straight to another grisly sight, the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. This was a sad day for us. Tuol Sleng literally has two meanings. One is poison. The other is finding guilt. Both are appropriate because Tuol Sleng was a prison and concentration camp for those who were declared to be enemies of the Khmer Rouge. Thousands were totured and forced to make confessions before they were killed. We saw lots of pictures of victims. They were children, women, teachers, priests, monks, foreigners, and even Khmer Rouge who were called traitors. The place had a very eerie vibe. It used to be a school before it was changed into the prison for its horrible purpose.

I wondered why did I want to see this? Was I disrespecting the dead or honoring them by going to see the genocide musuems? I hope I showed respect for all of human suffering by visiting these places. I want to remember victims of injustice even if I have no direct connection to them. I feel it is my duty to witness the truth, no matter how ugly. I'm not sure what I learned, but I will not forget what I saw.


Later we went across the street to a nice guesthouse and restaurant called Boddhi Tree. We needed to relax after seeing all of that. After that we went to the Central Market and got lost. But we eventually got out of it and found our tuk-tuk driver waiting for us. Then we met John for dinner. He does anti-trafficking work in South East Asia. There are many people who have little or no hope for economic improvement and they risk being smuggled into other countries for a chance at a better life. Unfortunately, many of them find themselves in horrible situations such as slavery or prostitution. We had dinner at a really nice restaurant called Elsewhere. The name was appropriate because it did not feel like Cambodia.
The next morning we left in a hired car for Siem Reap at 5 a.m.

Monday, August 14, 2006

Ta Prohm


Ta Prohm Posted by Picasa

Most of the Angkor temples are being restored, but this temple has been left mostly to the wild jungle. Trees have grown all over the ruins. It is an amazing place. By the way, Tomb Raider the movie was filmed in the Angkor temples.

The enigmatic faces of Bayon


The enigmatic faces of Bayon Posted by Picasa

Inside the temples of Angkor Thom, there is the Bayon temple. There are 54 giant faces. No one knows why they are there. They are huge and impressive.

Carvings in the temple


Bas reliefs in Angkor Wat Posted by Picasa

Carvings (bas reliefs) run all along the outside of a wall that runs around the temple. The carvings tell about 10 different stories. Most of them are about the king, wars, and gods and demons. This picture shows the aspara women dancers.

Angkor Wat in Siem Reap, Cambodia Posted by Picasa

Traffic Jam


Traffic Jam Posted by Picasa
We had to stop for the cows to cross the road many times.

Road Trip in Cambodia Posted by Picasa

Tuol Sleng


Tuol Sleng Museum (S-21) Posted by Picasa

The Khmer Rouge changed a school building into a prison and concentration camp. The prisoners were tortured and forced to make confessions before they were killed.

Killing Fields of Choeung Ek Posted by Picasa

The Killing Fields


The Killing Fields Posted by Picasa

The Khmer Rouge killed thousands of people near the village of Choeng Ek. They dug ditches that became mass graves.

Biking in Phnom Penh Posted by Picasa

Friday, August 04, 2006

A typical school day

This is what my schedule was like yesterday at Daroonpat Bilingual School. Everday is similar. Not much changes, except that on somedays I teach geography.
6:30 a.m. Wake up and get ready.
6:50 a.m. Catch a taxi.
7:10 a.m. Arrive at school and sign in.
7:12 a.m. Walk to 7-11 and buy breakfast or eat something I brought.
7:20 a.m. Plan lessons or check email. I'm still sort of waking up at this point.
7:50 a.m. Students and teachers assemble for flag ceremony. Thai staff give announcements in Thai. I stand there, but I don't understand any of it.
8:00 a.m. The Thai national anthem is played. One of the students leads the school in singing the anthem.
8:02 a.m. Two students raise the Thai flag to the top of the flagpole. 8:04 a.m. Most of the students and teachers are Buddhist. They say Buddhist prayers facing the statue of Buddha. Buddha statues in Thailand are slender unlike the plump Chinese Buddhas. The one at our school sits with his legs crossed in a meditative postition.
8:10 a.m. More announcements. Sometimes one of the foreign teachers has to give an informal speech or lesson. For my last speech I asked the students questions about the World Cup. The time before that I made up a rap about the school. It was right before their school spirit camp (think pep rally not religious retreat), so I thought it would be good to come up with something like that to get them excited about the school. Some of them liked it. Of course, I didn't expect them to learn to rap. I said it too fast for them to repeat it.
We're keepin' it real at Daroonpat.
Learin' English, Thai, Math, and hip-hop.
Art, swimming, science, and geography,
Dancing, cooking, health, and even "Monopoly".
Teachin' you sports, it's Teacher J.T.
He says, "Let's have lots of fun, but dress properly."
And don't forget science.
Teacher Bill, represent!
Show us another mad experiment!
The doc is in the house. It's Dr. Nontiwat.
Follow his example. You can learn a lot.
So let's get excited.
Show some spirit for your school.
Let everyone know, that it's really cool.

(Dr. Nontiwat is the school director.)
8:15-8:30 a.m. Homeroom. Students have to present their contact books to the teachers. They write down their homework assignments in them. The teachers sign next to the assignments to check that they wrote them down. Then the parents sign them to show that the students did the work. It works well. It lets the parents know their kids have homework. Also sometimes I write notes about the students' behavior in the books. I usually make the students sit quietly and read or do classwork/homework. Sometimes the Thai assistant teacher watches them instead of me, so I can have more time to prepare for lessons.
8:30-9:20 a.m. English class for grade 6. This time I taught them about possessive pronouns. We played a game. I had students put things that belonged to them in my bag. I told them to put something that others wouldn't know was theirs. Then I had them reach into the bag one by one and pull out an object. The students guessed who it belonged to and they had to ask "Is this yours?" I had a few objects that were mine. One of them was a pink umbrella that I got as a gift. They didn't know it was mine. :) Then we did fill in the blank in groups from the book.
9:20-10:10 a.m. Math class for grade 5. I taught them how to multiply fractions.
10 minute break. Usually there is a sugary snack like a donut with a glass of milk.
10:20-11:10 Math class for grade 6. I taught them how to find the duration of time when given a starting time and ending time. Then I introduced them to speed, time and distance problems. They had to fill in tables and do some word problems. It was tough for most of them. But a few of them are sharp and they get it really quickly.
11:10-Noon I have a free period. I planned my next lesson.
Noon-12:50 p.m. Lunch. Fried rice with pork.
12:50-1:40 p.m. English for grade 6 again. I gave them a short quiz about possessives and then I taught them about pastimes and using "go" and "play" with them in sentences. Go swimming. Play soccer. Go bowling. etc.
1:40-2:30 p.m. Free period.
2:30-2:40 p.m. Home room again. Students write down their homework in their contact books. Then they go home or stay for an extra English class.
2:40-3:30 p.m. Extra English class. Our classrooms have projectors that can display what is on a computer screen. I showed the students some on-line short stories from the British Council website. The stories are animated flash programs with sounds and characters' voices. The students liked it.
3:30-4:30 p.m. I have free time until the end of the day when we sign out and leave.
4:30-5:30 p.m. I travel back home in a taxi.
6:00 p.m. Tan and I meet for dinner.
However, I usually go to tutor some kids with Tan. It takes about 30 minutes to get to their home. Then I tutor for two hours. After that Tan and I eat together around 7 p.m.
With a schedule like this on most days, it's no wonder that I get worn out. Sometimes Tan and I tutor on Saturdays too. And on Sunday I hangout with friends. So I'm kind of tired at the end of the weekend too. I come home and I usually watch mindless TV or play solitaire. I have cable so I don't have to watch Thai TV shows. I can't stand them. Well, this was a long post. If you read every word then you're probably my mom. Take care.

Thursday, July 27, 2006

Next month: Cambodia

Next month I'll go to visit Cambodia. Tan and Halley, a friend from church, will go with me. Cambodia has been one of the places I have been wanting to go to the most since I came to Thailand. I have only been across the border once for a visa run. Cambodia appeals to me because I want to learn about its tragic history of genocide, remarkable people, and its ancient Khmer culture. And of course, who wouldn't want to take pictures of a giant tree swallowing an ancient face-carving in a remote jungle temple. I've seen some of the Khmer-style temples in Thailand, and they were remarkable already.

We'll fly into Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia. We'll stay for one day and night. Then we'll go to Siem Reap, which is the closest city to the famous Angkor Wat temples. Now we need to decide where we'll stay. I've found some good websites like this one: http://www.talesofasia.com/cambodia-siemreap-guide-stay.htm
I'd appreciate any tips about traveling in Cambodia. Happy traveling to all you cyberglobetrotters out there!